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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.